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Candles in the Clouds

  • Writer: Robyn Phipps
    Robyn Phipps
  • May 23
  • 3 min read

Updated: May 26

My 25th birthday was fast approaching, and I wanted to end 24 on a high note—with an epic hike. A few weeks earlier, we had explored the Cathedral area and hiked Xeni Cave with some girlfriends. Naturally, we thought, why not tackle the mountain the area is named after? So, it was settled: Cathedral Peak would be our next adventure.  

My family joined in, making a total of ten of us heading to Didima Camp for the weekend. We set off on Friday after work, catching the sunset over the magnificent Drakensberg mountains. In that moment, we truly grasped the magnitude of the mountain we were about to summit. There’s a reason this area is named after Cathedral Peak—it’s absolutely glorious!  

Sunset over the escarpment (Cathedral peak is the tall, pointed peak on the right)
Sunset over the escarpment (Cathedral peak is the tall, pointed peak on the right)

After a hearty breakfast at Didima, we set off for Cathedral Peak Hotel to begin our adventure. Just 300 meters into the hike, we discovered that Michael had brought no water; instead, he packed three beers and a brandy. Being a 19-year-old boy definitely has its perks! Oh, and did I mention he also forgot his hiking shoes? He was hiking in vellies.  

With Robyn as our navigator, detours were inevitable. Early on, we strayed off the path and found ourselves in a beautiful patch of indigenous forest, complete with caves and a lovely gorge—simply gorgeous! (pun intended). The tricky part was finding our way out of the gorge and back to the main trail. Amy spotted what looked like a climbable route but quickly learned it wasn’t quite as manageable as it seemed. After some scrambling and a bit of help from my new rope, we were back on track. Soon after, we encountered a troop of baboons, some of whom weren’t too pleased to see us. We quickened our pace and were in the clear within 150 meters. Fortunately, the wildlife is accustomed to hikers; as long as you keep your distance, they usually don’t cause any trouble.  

Mike sussing out an exit strategy from the gorge
Mike sussing out an exit strategy from the gorge

Up we went, higher and higher. The more our legs burned, the wider our eyes grew. This hike was nothing short of magnificent, offering breathtaking views all along the way. The mountain was shrouded in mist during our ascent, and ahead, we spotted the eerie silhouettes of two hikers. We felt incredibly lucky to have clear visibility below us the entire time. It quickly became my new favourite ridge walk as we made our way up towards Orange Peel Gap, with expansive views and stunning scenery. Mikey needed a pit stop along the way, so we took the opportunity to chat with the other hikers—always a pleasure to meet fellow mountain people. Afterward, we enjoyed a lovely flat section along the contour, giving our legs a much-needed break.  

Misty ridge views
Misty ridge views
Mike, ill-equipped in vellies, fuelled by brandy
Mike, ill-equipped in vellies, fuelled by brandy
Some light stretching on the plateau
Some light stretching on the plateau

As we approached the final summit, we met two seasoned hikers who generously offered navigational advice since it was our first attempt. We certainly underestimated the last section, which included exhilarating rock scrambling and route-finding. I must say, the ladder we encountered going up was the best Drakensberg ladder I’ve ever climbed—sturdy and reliable; at no point did I feel unbalanced.  

Weary smiles as we look upon what lies before us
Weary smiles as we look upon what lies before us
Big smiles in high places
Big smiles in high places

Reaching the summit was an absolute treat! We marveled at the expansive views while vultures soared close enough that we could hear the wind in their wings. Eventually, after some gummy bears and water (brandy in Mikes case) we had to tear ourselves away to begin our descent, as our group back at Didima was expecting us for sun-downers. The way down was just as spectacular; the spring colours had emerged, and the contrast of the green grass against the bright wildflowers was breathtaking.  

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Expansive views from the top
Expansive views from the top

At the end of the trail, we dunked our faces in the river to rinse off our dirt-smudged, but smiling, faces. A cold G&T and a warm shower awaited us at Didima, and we spent the evening reminiscing, laughing, and planning our next mission.  


Dirty faces and full hearts
Dirty faces and full hearts

1 Comment


Debra Phipps
Debra Phipps
May 26

I can't believe you guys had such a wonderful hike - the clouds just lifted at the right time for you - and you were all so exhausted but so happy when you came back - having had such a wonderful adventure. Ready for a well deserved Gin.

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