A Weekend With the Rhino

Rhino Peak Hike

Hike Distance: 23.5km

Elevation Gain: 1 800m

Great things are done when men and mountains meet~ William Blake ~

Towards the end of our family trip abroad, I found myself sitting on the beach in the Seychelles, overlooking crystal-clear waters, yearning for my mountains… the place of the dragon. I know - ridiculous. Living in the moment is clearly something I could work on. Anyhow, I messaged the one person I can always count on for adventures (provided she’s available): Justine. I simply wrote, “mountain mission next weekend??” and within minutes she replied, “I’m in!!” We had hiked to Pillar Cave the previous month and never got around to doing Rhino Peak, so there was unfinished business to attend to.

Fast forward to the week of the hike, and last-minute-dot-com Robyn decided it was time to start inviting others. I made an invite on Canva, listing the plan and details, and posted it on various statuses. In the end, we gathered a great group, along with many interested people who couldn’t make it on such short notice. Four of us drove up from Richmond on Friday afternoon, bound for Garden Castle campsite, arriving just after 7pm. Thankfully, the dipping sun gave us just enough time to pitch our tents before darkness set in. We had the whole campsite to ourselves and spent the evening munching on braai broodjies and listening to music around the fire before calling it an early night in anticipation of a big day on Saturday.

Saturday morning, bright and early, we had our coffee and packed up as we waited for the Hilton peeps to arrive. Justine had invited a couple from her run club, Chloe and Ryan. After a quick “before” photo, we were off. Sam stayed behind to keep the home fires burning and go on her own little side quest. Keren Brown, a friend from Underberg, had slept in Pillar Cave the night before with her three boys - Ansel (12), Ivan (11), and Mitchell (7). They had a head start on the hike, and if I’m being honest, I was a little doubtful about young Mitch making it all the way up. This hike is no walk in the park.

We fast-hiked the first five-ish kilometres, knowing it would be the easiest section and wanting to take advantage of the cool morning air before it got too toasty. Rhino was my first big hike back in 2022 - the one that got me hooked. I was excited to have my cousin Caleb join this mission, not so secretly hoping it would have the same effect on him. We chatted as we trudged along the overgrown trail, Rhino Peak towering above us in all its immensity. The steep pass loomed closer, and we all knew what lay ahead: a leg- and lung-burning endeavour.

When we reached Mashai Pass - the commonly used route for this hike - we began our ascent. Cheery chatter quickly turned to gasping as we climbed. We’d push on for about fifty metres, pause for a few seconds, then repeat. Eventually, we caught up to Keren and the boys, who were looking strong and unfazed, leaving us feeling both humbled and wildly impressed by their determination.

Finally, after some light pathfinding and more than a few small tumbles, we reached the top of the pass. The views - rugged and dramatic - left us speechless. No matter how many times I do this hike, I am always deeply moved by this place. From the top of the pass to the summit, a pair of young Basotho herdsmen and their dogs tagged along with us. At first, we were wary, as there have been incidents of violence in the area, but we were a large group with three strong men, which eased our concerns.

We soaked in the views towards Hodgson’s Peaks, along the North Ridge of Rhino. A short scramble near the summit left some members of our party feeling a little queasy, but we all made it up. We enjoyed a long lunch at the top while the boys hunted lizards, fearlessly hopping from rock to rock at three thousand metres. Our Basotho companions sat quietly, observing our group - entertainment is fairly limited up there I suppose. I snapped a photo of the two of them, and one asked me to WhatsApp it to him, rattling off a string of random numbers that I politely typed into my phone.

When it was time to head back down, I caught Caleb’s eye and mouthed, “get ready to run,” before asking one of the Basotho guys to take our group photo. He misunderstood and jumped straight into the picture with his friend. So, I leaned the phone against a rock, set the timer, and snapped a few quick shots instead.

The walk down was pleasant, our hiking sticks earning their keep on the descent. The boys, somehow still brimming with energy, trotted ahead, stopping only to collect interesting rocks or point out unusually sticky plants. At Pillar Cave, we collected the gear Keren and the kids had left behind. Keren and I lingered at the back while the others moved on ahead, where they apparently spotted a berg adder on the path - one that Justine allegedly almost stood on.

Back at camp, we helped everyone set up for the night before heading to the river for a much-needed cool-down swim. Sam had managed to burn herself to a crisp during her solo walk and sun nap - it was bad. The cold berg water eased our tired muscles and filled our hearts. That evening was spent in community and good food, and we all fell into our beds, dreaming of our day spent in the sky.

After packing up on Sunday morning, we stopped for a swim in Hippo Pools near Drakensberg Gardens before heading to The Olde Duck for a wholesome breakfast. It was a weekend of accomplishment, expansive views, and good laughs shared with wonderful people.